Swept back in time

As you walk through the lace covered doors of Jakarta’s Café Batavia you are immediately swept back to a different age, a period of colonial decadence, big movie stars, big cars and big clothes.

Judy Garland is singing on the sound system, the staff are impeccably dressed in white serving suits, ceiling fans whirl above you and huge mirrors decorate the walls above long bars that straddle the lounge areas.

Pictures of stars from a bygone age adorn the walls throughout the two tier bar/restaurant, whose floors are joined by an impressive staircase, and lit by striking chandeliers.

On the day I lunched at this historical throwback there were only a smattering of customers, mostly expats but, according to local residents of Jakarta, the area, near the old municipal Jakarta town hall, has never been the same since the riots of the late 1990’s.

As former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and romance author Barbara Cartland, a strange combination, stare down upon me as I tuck into my post hangover lunch of chicken congee with snake beans.

The silky congee, thick with chicken and a touch of chilli oil, gives me the right combination of comfort food and a kick to get the taste buds working again after a night of beer.

The beans were sweet and also cooked with chicken, garlic and chilli. Some dim sum rounded off the lunch and I’m in need of a walk after.

Over the road is the Jakarta Museum of History. The place is interesting ansd does give a good insight into how Jakarta developed.

Many of the building surrounding Cafe Batavia and the Museum are derelict, or at best in bad repair, but there is the possibility for turning the whole area into an arts and entertainment area.

There was some talk of rejuvenating the area in 2006, but as yet little has been done.

Next is a short trip to Jakarta’s dockside. Here in the 17th century is where the Dutch looked to take a foothold in Asia through the spice trade.


The area now is a mishmash of tourist spots, a working port, and squalor.

Tourists wander through the maritime museum, which give a great overview as to how Jakarta developed as a trading port.


Behind the museum locals wade knee-deep through rubbish, dumped unceremoniously on the shore edge, a child plays amongst the refuse and an open toilet, sitting amongst the filth, is also engaged, in full view of the tourists.

As in much of the city the potential is undeniable, just unrealised.

Cheers,

Blocka